Hyangiram and the Dolsan coast
향일암과 돌산 바닷가
Day course · 6 stops · Yeosu · Suncheon
Take bus 111 in the morning out to Hyangiram at the tip of Dolsan. Back down, have braised hairtail for lunch and stop at a seaside café in Musulmok, then pick up mugwort ice cream and strawberry mochi in the old town on your way to Yeosu Expo Station.
[Bus 111] Catch bus 111 or 111-1 at the Jinnamgwan stop next to Yi Sun-sin Square. They come every 30 to 50 minutes, so head out early, and travellers say the ride from town takes about an hour. Only a few early-morning buses pass Yeosu Expo Station. [Hyangiram] From the stop it's a steep 15 to 20 minutes up a slope and stone stairs, then through narrow gaps in the rock. Wear comfortable shoes. Opening hours and the entry fee differ between sources, so check before you go. [Galchiya] It's on the city's list of places that welcome solo diners, so you can order braised or grilled hairtail on your own. The set meals are for two or more. [Gat kimchi] Dolsan leaf-mustard kimchi smells strong, so double-wrap it for the train. If it's going back to a dorm, buy a small tub or have it shipped. [Moi Fin] Buses rarely reach the Musulmok seafront, so a taxi is easier both ways. The Ocean and Sky branches share one site. [Gifts] The line for Yeosudang's mugwort ice cream gets very long at weekend midday, and there are lookalike shops around the square, so check the name. Samdaeok sells its strawberry mochi only in boxes of six or more. [Departure day] The old town is about 7 minutes from Yeosu Expo Station by taxi. The last KTX to Seoul leaves around 21:54 and reaches Yongsan around 00:44, after the subway stops, so take the one around 20:22 to arrive before midnight. The last train to Suseo is around 18:39. Trains to Seoul sell out first on Sunday afternoons and holidays, so buy ahead and check the times before you go. [If it rains] The stone steps and rock paths at Hyangiram get slippery in the rain, so skip it. Go to the indoor sights in the Expo park by the station, or stop at the Jeonnam Maritime & Fisheries Science Museum in Musulmok and check its opening days before you go. [Seasons] From the night of 31 December into the morning of 1 January, the roads on Dolsan jam with people coming for the sunrise. The stairs at Hyangiram get very hot at midday in summer, so bring water.
Stops
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Photos: ⓒ한국관광공사 · suksim · CC BY 2.0 · 변경함 · Arthur Chapman · CC BY 2.0 · 변경함 · jillllybean · CC BY-SA 2.0 · 변경함 · by jetalone (flickr) · CC BY 2.0 · 변경함